June 6-7, Norfolk, VA

Dismal Swamp! Today we traveled through the alternate western route of the Intercoastal Waterway that goes through the Dismal Swamp between Elizabeth City, NC and Norfolk, VA, a trip that totals 50 miles.

Pasquotank River

Cypress trees edge the river

We left Elizabeth City at about 8:15 am, after a nice two night stay. The boat races will continue today in Elizabeth City, but we are moving on. The first part of the trip we continue north on the Pasquotank River. This is a beautiful stretch of the waterway and it gets narrower and narrower as we head upstream. Almost no homes here. Just wilderness as it must have looked many years ago. Really nice.

Eighteen miles to the north of Elizabeth City we encountered a lock that opened only four times a day, 8:30, 11:00, 1:30 and 3:30. We waited over an hour for the 11 am opening. We joined three other boats and were lifted eight feet to the level of the Dismal Swamp Canal that will carry us through the swamp. Here our speed is regulated to about 5.5-6 mph as the next lock is 22 miles ahead and will not operate for 4 1/2 hours. The northern lock also opens only four times a day, 8:30, 11:00, 1:30 and 3:30. Arriving any faster will just cause us to wait longer at the other end and result in a ticket and fine for arriving early. This way the authorities control the wakes from boat traffic and save the dredging that would be necessary if the shore were to erode into the canal. The canal is narrow, shallow and has submerged logs from trees that have fallen into the canal and not been removed. So - we went slowly with our small flotilla of four boats and together made the 3:30 opening of the northern lock.

Dismal Swamp Canal

Sign says this is Superintendent's home.

Trip in the canal is over 4 hours at slow speed.
Submerged logs are a concern.

Dismal Swamp is beautiful, boring and not friendly to the boat running gear. We hit six or more submerged logs (two pretty hard bumps) and wonder about our stabilizers, props and shafts. And the weather was hot. Clear skies and over 90 degrees with no breeze in the canal. We finally arrived in Norfolk about 6 pm after 10 hours on the water (a new record for us). We are glad we made the trip (checked it off our 'to do' list) but will not likely do it again. The main Intercostal Waterway route is east of here and goes through Coinjock, so we will plan to go that way on the return trip.

As we started north on the Elizabeth River, the main Intercoastal Waterway channel, we encountered a bridge that was unable to open due to mechanical problems. They informed us that they had called a mechanic and he would be working on the problem ASAP. We waited about 30 minutes with several other boats and the problem was fixed. Just another event along the waterway. We were in the middle of the industrial area so it was an interesting place to be.

Entering the river leading to Norfolk we begin to see the heavy industrial areas. Here we go under a RR Bridge that lowered to allow a train to pass soon after we passed under. Glad we got under this one in time so we did not have to wait.

Boat yard with old fashioned sailing ship being repaired.
Norfolk has a sailing ship event next weekend.

Navy ship in drydock

Navy ships seem to be everywhere.

Stealth type Navy Ship.

Aircraft Carrier.

Approaching downtown Norfolk and Waterside Marina.

A Navy ship in drydock visible from our marina.

It rained overnight and the weather is much cooler and nice. We take a walk into town and find a Korean War Memorial ceremony at the MacArthur Memorial and then head off to the large MacArthur Mall in downtown.

Former City Hall and Courthouse (1850)

Now the Douglas MacArthur Memorial

Korean children getting ready to perform at the Korean War Commemorative Ceremony (60th Anniversary). Purpose of the ceremony is to honor the veterans.

Stage set for Korean War Veterans Ceremony.

Norfolk has a 'Mermaids on Parade' project for artists and charities.




We go the the large MacArthur Mall in downtown Norfolk (within walking distance of the marina) and see a sign in the mall inviting local businesses to enquire about opening a store in the mall. We have heard that malls nationally are now much more friendly to local businesses because the national retaillers are not expanding and in many cases the nationals are cutting back or closing. The malls are now hoping local businesses will fill the spaces. In the past, the large malls were interested in national chains only.

Sign in the mall advertising for local businesses to open in the mall.

KOKOMO II at the Waterside Marina in Norfolk with a Navy ship in drydock across the river.

Linda met a lady, Michelle, in the boaters lounge who is from Holland and has just completed a sail across the Atlantic in their 50 foot sailboat LAMAWAJE with her husband, their three children and her mother-in-law. Linda asked about the crossing and Michelle said the trip was fine. No weather issues. They will leave the boat here and fly back and forth from time to time. She said they have a blog, and it is in Dutch. We went by the boat to greet the husband, and met the mother-in-law who was up top on the boat. She said they were having problems with the sanitary system and no one could not come out to say hello right now. I said there was a good boat yard nearby and they would have a mechanic who could fix the problem and she said 'no, my son fixes everything'. The Dutch seem very self sufficient and thrifty.

LAMAWAJE From Holland.
Three young girls aboard, all under 10.

AMERICAN ROVER takes tourists to see the harbor.
Red sails in the sunset!

In the middle of the Elizabeth River, just off Town Point Park and the Waterside Marina, is 'Zero Point' of the Intercoastal Waterway. Cruising boaters measure their transit to or from Florida using this reference point. We traveled from mile marker 965 in Stuart, Florida to mile marker -0- in Norfolk, a distance of 965 miles in about three weeks. We traveled at a speed of mostly 8.2 knots (about 9.5 mph) and used about 500 gallons of fuel.

KOKOMO II is docked in the middle of things.
There are several restaurants in the blue building behind the boat.

We have dinner at 'Hooters' overlooking our boat. The marina added flags today to get ready for the 'Parade of Sails' this coming weekend.

Norfolk Naval Shipyard is the largest in the world. Big ships and small commercial boats and pleasure craft all share the waterway. Very active and very interesting. We like Norfolk and Waterside Marina and rate it a 'great stop'.