Sept 20-24, Grand Rivers, KY

We got underway early again this morning as we plan another 100 miles today, seven miles down the Mississippi, 58 miles up the Ohio with two locks and 35 up the Cumberland with one lock.

We go seven more miles downstream on the Mississippi River with the current (about 3 knots) and then turn east into the OhioRiver. Now we are going against the current (about 1.5 knots). There are at least a dozen large sets of barges with tugs tied up along the river bank here. They must prefer the Ohio River as a staging area because there is less current running.

Large number of barges with one tug.

Large number tugs with large number of barges waiting to be broken up.

We go upriver on the Ohio, against the current, past Cairo (pronounced Kay-ROW), Illinois. This town located at the intersection of four big rivers. Just 40 miles upstream, the Cumberland and the Tennessee Rivers join the Ohio and then the Ohio joins the Mississippi at Cairo. Linda drives through Cairo and reports that it is a sad looking, almost vacant, downtown.

Harrah's Casino on the riverfront in Cairo.

Barges and tug waiting for the lock.

Big tug with two barges waiting for lock #53. He will go through after us.
We waited three and a half hours to get through lock #53.

This is lock #53 on the Ohio River.
We went up all by ourselves with no tie offs.
This old lock operated very slowly. It took 30 minutes to lock us through.

We pass by the flood wall at Paducah.
Town is visible behind the wall.

At Paducah we called the Kenlake Lock and they were not busy with any commercial barges and told us there were none waiting. So we left the Ohio River and went up the Tennessee River straight into the Kenlake Lock and locked through immediately. Very unusual. Saved us 25 miles and more than two hours. Kenlake is a big lock and usually has a very long wait for recreational boats to go through because commercial has priority. Some boaters have reported waiting 12 hours.

Large number of tugs.

Large number of tugs in floating dry docks.

Kenlake lock is the biggest on the 'loop'. We will rise 57 feet.
The water fills the lock from the center of the floor. And it rushes in so fast, it pins the boat to the wall and the front fender cannot stand the pressure. We work hard to keep the boat off the wall.
Not a safe situation.

Ken Horner has piloted KOKOMO II for the last two days.
He looks pretty good considering the long days of cruising.
As a professional Boat Captain, he gave us instructions about passing the barges on the 'one whistle' or 'two whistle' side.

Barkley Canal.

Approaching Green Turtle Bay Marina.
This is a welcome sight after a long two days on the rivers.
Green Turtle Bay is a favorite of the 'loopers'. Many stay here a week or more.

Green Turtle Bay Marina gas dock. Line up of 'looper' boats behind.
'Loopers' met every evening in the gazebo at the top of the hill to get acquainted and exchange information. Everyone brought a snack.

We took Ken's car and drove back to Paducah, Kentucky, to take a look at the town.

Window display in Paducah.

Riverfront Old Town Paducah.

Paducah flood wall is decorated with historical murals.

Artist touching up a panel.

Early days.

Riverboats.

Modern times.

Paduca is the home to the National Quilt Museum, rated a GEM by AAA. We take a look and find it to have some extraordinary quilts and wall hangings. And some quilt wall hangings made of wood!

Banners for National Quilt Museum.

This is a wall hanging and one our favorites. All made of painted cloth and stitched to add texture to the faces and figures.
Outstanding.

This is a wooden wall hanging, not fabric. Another of our favorites.
There are several quilts made of solid wood that have been painted and have the texture of fabric.
Unique.

The town of Grand Rivers, Kentucky, is the closest to our marina. There are a few nice shops, several restaurants, a grocery store and even a theater with live performances. Coming in October is 'Greater Tuna' one of our favorites but we will be gone 'down the waterway'. Grand Rivers is located between Kenlake on the Tennessee River and Lake Barkley on the Cumberland River. Both lakes were created by TVA dams in the 1950's and 1960's. Several towns are now completely submerged and the people displaced and relocated. This area is known as 'tween the waters'.

Downtown Grand Rivers, Kentucky.
Pretty small town.

The locals tell us about 'Patti's 1180's Settlement' restaurant in Grand Rivers and we become big fans in just one evening.

Patti's front door.

The food is outstanding. (we had the house specialty which is a 2" center cut pork chop) Dinner was declicious. This is a large restaurant in rural Kentucky that is in a dry county, so no liquor. Rated by some as the best restaurant in Kentucky! We can agree.

Water wheel at the entrance to the gardens and shops.

There is also a large garden area with several large shops selling high end merchandise, putt-putt golf, model boat sailing, a small zoo with peacocks, ostriches, llamas and goats, free evening outdoor movies, a wedding chapel, gazebo's for private parties outdoors, winding paths and a waterwheel. I'm sure we didn't take in everything.

Interesting garden benches.
Butterflies,

Dragonflies.

?

Hanging baskets on a custom pole.

Very interesting wind sculptures are located all around the garden. Shiny. Made of polished aluminum or stainless steel?

Linda and Ken.

And some rustic wooden chairs and bird houses for sale. Pretty eclectic mix. The surroundings are interesting but it is the food what brings everyone back.







All in a town of 350 people.

Ken Horner leaves us to visit daughter Bethany at Michigan State and then return home. Thanks for all the help piloting KOKOMO II on the mighty Mississippi!