May 30-June3, Norfolk, VA

The BIG TUG we followed through the bridges

BIG NAVY SHIPS

Dry dock for painting and repairs

KOKOMO II in Norfolk at the Waterside Marina

The Battleship Wisconsin

Sailboat based at Waterside for daily tours. Very pretty red sails. She is moored very close to us on the outside dock and we saw a wedding aboard last evening about sunset. So close we could almost hear the vows.

Navy ships come and go every day. A very active port.

Linda finds a (toy) motorcycle and gets a little bit comfortable

Owen and Linda arrive in Norfolk, 985 nautical miles from Stuart, and decide they are none the worse for wear.

Cruise 30 miles toward Norfolk through pretty and undeveloped country. We arrived at Great Bridge where we refuel ($2.30 for diesel; cheapest yet) and check out the Atlantic Marina for winter storage. Proceed through the lock and we rise about six inches; we wonder if this is usual. On another 20 miles toward Norfolk and we wait with four or five other boats, including a large tug, for several bridges to open on their schedules (on the hour or on the 1/2 hour) before we can go through. We arrive in Norfolk harbor called "Hampton Roads" and go close by three aircraft carriers and several other large Navy Ships in drydock and under repair. Several small Navy security boats are patrolling the aircraft carrier nearest the channel to keep us at a distance.
We stay at the Waterside Marina again right at the foot of downtown Norfolk. Waterside Marina has some shops and several restaurants right on premises and a nice big mall about 5 blocks away. We find an Apple store in the big mall and take classes to learn how to use the new Apple iMac. Our learning is coming but slowly. Linda seems faster at the pasting of the pictures and the graphics than I do.
We all visited the Nautical Maritime Museum in Norfolk and toured the Battleship, Wisconsin, now in mothballs awaiting recommissioning if needed. Museum was nautical and covered the types of boats and life aboard the boats used around this area in the discovery, settlement, trade and battles from the early days to the present day with lots about the Navy presence here. Lots on the early settlers (Jamestown, 1607, is nearby) how early families explored and made their living on the boats, Pirate days and how that all came about, invasions and defense of the area during the Revolutionary War, War of 1812, Civil war, and area contributions to the war effort during WW I, WW II and the Gulf wars. Lots of ship models and cutaway models, clothing and weapons.
Chuck and Charlotte leave on the 1st to drive back to Florida. Great to have them aboard and lots of fun to have some local knowledge as we went through rural coastal NC, especially Belhaven. As crew they were a big help and the line circles on the dock never looked better.
Ken Horner arrives Sunday (our last night in Norfolk) with Molly for a week aboard as we move north in the Chesapeake.
Took a small boat tour of the Navy's presence in the harbor that included the area from Norfolk all the way out to the Chesapeake Bay. This is a VERY BIG Navy yard and is said to be the largest naval yard in the world. We must have seen 75 Navy ships today. Ships in dry dock for painting or repair, an area where ships are being demagnetized, lots of ships at the docks presumably being loaded and/or waiting for assignment. Lots of movement of Navy ships in the port. Different types of ships in port today include aircraft carriers, destroyers, submarines and about every other type you may have read about. Beautiful to see these ships up close (approx 200 yds)from the boat. Security very evident including large floating barriers protecting the larger ships by keeping all other craft away, with coast guard and navy boats patrolling.

Kenny and Molly arrive on a rainy day and get a hug from Linda.

The Tugboat Museum is closed in preparation for a move to Florida

Always some activity in the marina. Here a sailor repairs a wind gage.

Pretty far up there

Two Coast Guard patrol boats docking in Norfolk right beside KOKOMO II, each with a crew of four and equipped with machine guns fore and aft.

Coast Guard crew reports that they are assigned to patrol the harbor during the tall ship festival next week in Norfolk. Supposed to be more than 70 tall ships here. Coast guard says patrol boats will go over 50 knots and cruise at 35.

May 29, Coinjock, NC

Osprey nests in lots of the markers

Our "looper" flag lets other boats know we're on the Great Loop.

KOKOMO II at the docks in Coinjock. Now 50 miles from Norfolk and over 900 miles from Stuart

Relaxing in the morning before moving on toward Norfolk

Today was 70 degrees and clear, slightly hazy and nice. Travelled about 80 miles through the pretty inland waters of NC including the Albermarle Sound (one foot chop or less) and arrived about 3pm. Pretty undeveloped on the whole route today. Charlotte saw a deer, Chuck saw an Eagle and Linda saw an alligator. We all saw turtles along the way but not much other wildlife. One sailboat was seen aground, about 100 yards out of the channel near Alligator Bridge with a shrimp boat trying to pull him off. Heard later the sailboat was calling SeaTow so I guess they were unsuccessful in getting off until much later. Probably have to wait until tide change. Pretty quiet here in Coinjock with a good restaurant. The specialty is prime rib (32 oz) and they have soft shell crab today. We're eating like on a cruise ship.
No crabs from yesterday's attempt at crabbing in Belhaven. Charlotte and Chuck were very hopeful and tried crabbing for an hour or so at the dock in Belhaven. Locals told us later that we may be too early as water may still be too cold for crabs to move around much. Plan to try again later in the trip.

May 28, Belhaven, NC

The Belhaven Hotel - a classic and about the finest around in it's time

Information about the museum

Chuck and Charlotte go crabbing. They are "chicken neckers" as all amateurs are called.

On to Belhaven, about 40 miles up the intercoastal. Ran over our first crab pot float today, (a black float and did not see it in the black water) and had to go swimming with a sharp knife to clear the props. Such is the life of cruising in crab pot country. We are staying at the River Forest Manor and Marina, a famous old small hotel with a famous dining room. Charlotte Styers remembers staying here at this hotel with her mom and dad in 1955. She remembered it was room #7, the room right in front on the water with big windows. Charlotte asked the desk clerk if the room was available today and as it was not occupied, Charlotte took the key and went to the room. The memories flooded back. Wow!!!!!!!!!! Fifty two years`ago.
We took a loaner golf cart to town and did some grocery shopping and saw some charming older homes in town. (Many of the homes are being raised an additional 5 feet or so to protect them from future flooding from hurricanes. Town was last flooded 4 to 5 feet in the 1950s with a hurricane and the whole area seems low and vulnerable.)
Also went to the local museum and saw a very eclectic collection of stuff including dressed fleas, turn of the century clothing and war memorabilia including a sub machine gun from WW I and a pickled eight legged pig. It is the lifelong collection of a local family (who can trace their roots to one of the NC signers of the Declaration of Independence) and is housed downtown on the second floor of a very old building. Truly eclectic and dusty.
We're going crabbing this afternoon with chicken legs and "fatback". Will keep everyone posted on the results.
Met the folks from several other boats who seem to be travelling about the same speed and with some of the same stops. Some boats are doing the "loop" and one is from Chicago and will finish there in October. Others just heading north.

May 27, Oriental, NC

Chuck and Owen decide that this is probably Camp Seafarer where Abbie and Katie both spent time in summer camp learning to sail

Oriental Marina looking at the condominiums

Nice Marina with fixed docks as not much tide change here

A power boat goes aground and the tow off is in progress. Reminds us of the Bahamas

The local art of making Adirondack chairs with personality seems well developed

Oriental is very small (less than 1000 population) but has a real nautical feel with commercial shrimp boats and lots of power and sailboats that call the area home. One real good nautical hardware store with all kinds of gear and toys. Enjoyed our afternoon strolling the town and shops and had a nice dinner at a local seafood restaurant. We had "small plates" of crab, flounder, shrimp and scallop's. A few new condominiums being built but project seemed stopped. Area at marina had an upscale feel but tiny.

May 26, New Bern, NC

This is good sailing country so lots of sailboats in the marina

A swing bridge as we leave New Bern

Travel to New Bern and stay at the Sheraton Marina at the foot of downtown. Big marina with the area somewhat under construction. Walked through the town and found some interesting architecture, particularly one big Episcopal Church in the middle of town. A local shopkeeper (charming man) told us "Town rated best small undiscovered city in US by Today Show". Not sure about that or that it rated the honor. Sat afternoon and most of town closing up and will not be open on Sun, so we stay only one night instead of planned two.

May 24-25, Beaufort, NC

Barge traffic - we move WAAAAY over

Nautical village of Beaufort has lots of shops, several restaurants and a nautical museum featuring local boat building and a big shell collection

Fishing is pretty good in Beaufort - Bluefin Tuna in the winter, and shrimp in the spring, summer and fall.

Traveled 75 miles up the Intercoastal to Beaufort, NC (pronounced "BOW fort"). Trip was slow because of some low bridges (12' clearance and we need 21') with restricted opening schedules (only open on the hour) so we had two waits of about 20-30 minutes.
Beautiful day on the water and we had several glimpses of the open ocean only a short distance over the sand dunes. A beautiful and interesting day. Arrived at the Beaufort town docks, again right downtown in the heart of the small shopping and restaurant area. A lively town in the evening as it cools off with live music at two of the outdoor restaurants which can be heard on the boat. Very nice and they stopped playing about 10pm. Have run into several boats and crews we have seen and met before on the trip. Breakaway is here; we met them in St Augustine. They have completed the "loop" and are going to the Chesapeake to spend the summer. They said they were not ready to go home (to Southern Calif). Their website www.breakawayyacht.com is awesome.
Spent the day touring Beaufort and Morehead City and did some housekeeping including replacing our freezer on the flybridge. Do not know what happened but it quit. So got a new one. Found the freezer, rented a truck, got the freezer to the boat, got rid of the old one. Feel like I accomplished something with all that.
Chuck and Charlotte drive up from Fla to join us for a week on the boat. They arrived Friday and joined us at 5:30 on the boat for a tour with Charlotte's uncle Frank Styers and cousin, Laura Ann. They will stay overnight with Charlotte's family and will join us for the trip north on Sat.
We really like the marina environment here in Beaufort. Small marina, right downtown and parallel to the main street. Met lots of other boaters here as everyone seemed to hang out at the dock ready for conversation. Reminds me of the best docks for socializing in the Bahamas. We saw two wild horses on the island across from Beaufort as we left the docks and motored through the harbor toward Morehead City.

Welcome to Beaufort from Charlotte's NC family. L-R Chuck, Charlotte's uncle Frank Styres, Linda, Charlotte, Charlotte's cousin Laura Ann, Owen

May 23, Wrightsville Bch, NC

Wrightsville Beach is a waypoint on the ICW and a beach resort town. Wrightsville Marina just fine with a restaurant here on site with showers and laundry. We're doing laundry and getting caught up on our journals. Taking a break-trying to get photo's into our blog. Slow going for the boat on this part of the ICW with all the local docks and traffic. Hope it will thin out soon.

May 22, Wilmington, NC

Commercial port almost empty of shipping.

Big tugboats at the ready

Battleship North Carolina, now decommissioned and a tourist attraction

KOKOMO II tied up to the dock in the middle of town

Wilmington, NC is up the Cape Fear River about 15-20 miles from Southport and the Cape Fear Inlet. This is a really lovely town with a BIG commercial ship port, and a very nice downtown area on the River a few miles further upstream. We stayed right downtown at the foot of the street that is in the center of the historical area. Took a trolley tour of town and saw lots of pretty homes and churches, rode on brick streets and heard lots of history; both revolutionary war and civil war. The area never fully recovered from the civil war as the newer areas inland became the new centers for North Carolina. This town is now a large historical district (about 230 square blocks) and is still the way it was in earlier times. Pleasant to be here.

May 21, Southport, NC

Southport is a classic American small town. One main street parallel to the water crosses another main street going to the water and that's about it. Nice protected marina (under construction, partially open) and walked 5 minutes to town for a nice dinner with good food and low prices. Southport is located about 1/2 mile from the Cape Fear Inlet, just up the Cape Fear River, and must get an awful hard blow during a Hurricane. Most of the land seems pretty low and exposed. There are a few dozen old homes here, but not that many as the town seems to have a population of less than 1000. Several shrimp boats make this their home port.

May 20, Myrtle Beach, SC

Myrtle Beach is T-shirt shop heaven. Thinking of Ron and Cathie when we see this shirt.

Barefoot Landing in North Myrtle Beach is a large outlet mall type shopping center along the waterway with power and water available (but no showers). Shopping center built around a big lake and architecture ok but shops so junky it is not worth stopping. One Italian restaurant was very good and we met the owner (a character) so turned out to be a fun evening. Would stop elsewhere next time. Heard the sculpture garden nearby are really a GEM, but did not stop. Maybe next time. It was Bike week in Myrtle Beach this week, so lots of bikes around. Mostly Harley's -VROOOOM-VROOOOM!

VROOOOM-VROOOOM!

May 19, Georgetown, SC

Made Georgetown, SC, today. Staying at a very small marina right downtown. Shrimp boats are right next door. A very nice main street parallels the river front and has lots of nice stores (a regular small town), but no grocery. We had dinner at the "Rice Pattie" restaurant and then went to the theater for last minute tickets. Told it was sold out but might have some "no shows" and would release tickets to us if there were. And there were. Got two tickets in theater of 200. Forget what we saw, left at intermission. Pleasant stop.

May 17-18, Charleston, SC

Greeting old friends Judy and Kent Mergler for a few days of sightseeing together

An arbor of Night Blooming Jasmine

Cobblestone street - the rock came from England as the ballast in ships

Beautiful old homes and gardens

Arrive in Charleston at the largest marina we have seen so far on our trip, the Charleston City Marina (nicknamed Megadock). Seems like several hundred spaces, and some are inside the breakwater and some outside. Tides here run 7-9 feet (yes 9 foot tides) and so the current can be very strong going in or going out or slack depending on how you catch it. Wind can be a big factor as well because the megadock is pretty exposed and the river is 1/2 mile wide here. We heard of several "crashes" the day we arrived; nothing serious, but usually once a month, something pretty bad happens and boats go to the yard for repairs. Our docking was uneventful as we arrived around low tide and current was not much of a factor. Just lucky on the timing. Met Kent and Judy Mergler in Charleston for dinner and sightseeing and toured the city in a horse drawn coach. Lots to see of the old churches and homes and the city is well preserved. Restrictions are in place to keep it that way. The "Tall Ships" (eight replica square rigged sailing ships) were in Charleston Harbor making the rounds of cities on the east coast of the US this summer, so it was nice to see them up close. Next stop for these ships is scheduled to be Bermuda and then Norfolk in mid June. This is the 400th anniversary of the founding of Jamestown, Va, in 1607, and that is the occasion for their being in the US this summer. These square rigged saliing ships are world travellers and quite a sight. We did not get to see them underway, as the wind was too strong and their departure to Bermuda was delayed. We got some close up photo's on our way out of town, but only of the ships at their docks.